When we’re unemployed, we’re called lazy; when the whites are unemployed it’s called a depression – Jesse Jackson
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35 minutes or so driving west from Welford and you hit the Birmingham city boundary. The airport, railway station and National Exhibition Centre take up what swathes of Warwickshire are left after the motorways took the rest. Shakespeare’s County now exists only in those villages that have somehow dodged the destruction. Like Welford they keep up the pretence of timelessness.
Five to six miles before the city appear the outer suburbs of Sheldon and Yardley. Former villages themselves, they found themselves swallowed up in the 1930s house building boom. They are, in the main, without character, soul-less, full of people perfectly content to tick off each day as they get older and eventually die. Any excitement comes from Quiz Nite down the pub or treating the family to a KFC or (luxury indeed) a table in one of the many local curry houses.
On to the inner city – Hay Mills and Small Heath. An expressway to the south hurries traffic into the city centre but the A45 is the old gateway from the east. The city expanded out this way in the latter part of the 19th century to house the families of the men who kept the factories and foundries going, the Brummie working class. When the Irish started arriving after the War the Brummies looked down their noses at them as they sought basic accommodation. ‘No dogs or Irish’ read the signs.
The Windrush generation, beginning in 1948, saw an influx of West Indians to do the menial stuff – bus conductors, hospital porters, labouring. With the crumbling of the British Empire came the Indians, Pakistanis and East Africans. For a while the signs read ‘No blacks, dogs or Irish.’ Then the native Brummies started to up and leave for the outer suburbs leaving the new immigrants to it.
I drove slowly up the road. For fully two miles the area has been fully colonised by the new immigrants. From the start they worked harder and longer, especially in retail. They earned their right to stay and theirs is now a thriving and self-supporting community. As I crawled along it was a riot of traditional dress and costume, every business now owned by the ‘new’ immigrants. Where Welford is – to all intents and purposes – 100% white, this part of Birmingham is 100% new immigrant. (A misnomer really – many are now second, third even fourth generation). I wouldn’t have been a bit surprised to see a sacred cow wander through the slow-moving traffic.
But towards the city end of Small Heath is a white enclave – Birmingham City Football Club. Since 1875 the club has been resident in Small Heath. Everyone is welcome to attend matches but few of colour do. They’re not interested. Instead the white Brummies, like homing pigeons, perpetually find their way back there on match day.
I lived in Small Heath from 1953 – 1956. My Irish parents then moved out to Sheldon. There Mum still lives.
And when I retire? Yes I’d stay in Jersey if I can. Welford needs money I don’t have. Sheldon, no chance – I’d die of boredom. Small Heath? You betcha! Full of life and interest, near enough to Digbeth in the post-industrial city and a string of great, traditional bars. And the Brummies, wherever they originated, are as welcoming as any.
So which is the ‘real’ England? And where would you live given a free choice?
So, it’s Jersey forever? What about that heart of yours?
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Not necessarily. We’ll have to see where the wind blows.
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Oh that’s good to hear!
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Really interesting Roy, not only to have a tour of the city but also the way it’s changed over the years and the different characters of each part. Although I’d love to live in rural idyll, I like the excitement and interest that having diverse groups of people living together give.
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Thanks Andrea. Yes indeed I could quite easily blend back into a cityscape if necessary. Certainly it’s a cheap way to exist, though floating along a canal would work as well! We’ll see in due course, I don’t look too far ahead.
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I read this post this morning and have been cogitating ever since. What is the real England? We are very sheltered down here in commuter village Surrey, some of the places round here haven’t changed for years. However, there is a certain thrill at walking through a newish community area – I’m remembering parking recently to get to Wembley Stadium and walking through Southall. The sights and smells, the colour and vitality was like being somewhere on holiday. We stopped off on the way back to buy unusual vegetables and spices at the open air market. Brilliant! There should be room for us all to live and grow and share our traditions. Sadly for some, they are too short sighted to see the advantages.
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Hi Jenny. Yes that post was from left field really. However I don’t get back to Brum too often and the contrast with Welford was too good not to write about. You’re so right. Without immigration imagine how grey and dull Britain would be. Other cultures have brought new attitudes, different ways of thinking and living. Problems also of course but many of these exaggerated – it’s something we see from some small-minded Jersey residents continually. I’m not sure I’d want to box myself off in a idyllic backwater and have the world pass me by.
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I love that Jesse Jackson quote.
It’s amazing to see how towns change over the years and why people move in and out. My retirement years will be spent here in the country. It was supposed to be quiet and peaceful, yet has been anything but – or maybe I just find thrills, excitement and drama wherever I go 😉
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Morning Dianne! Maybe you have it worked out but I love another quote, by Woody Allen, ‘If you want to make God laugh tell him your plans.’ With my possible retirement coming over the hill and not really having made financial provision I’m keeping a very open mind about what the future may hold. Australia of course has its own intriguing history.
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Roy you cannot stop change so you may as well embrace it. Although I use to be a city gal when I was a young thing and loved the diversity it had to offer from all the different cultures. I now search out a different life for my children in the country. Not much culture out here. But I know my children will probably do what I did and search out a more exciting existence when they are old enough. So I do believe in different stages of life our needs change. I hope where ever you go it has all the trimmings you need.
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Kath you’re right. It’s good to have the choice and I’d be the last to decry anyone who decided on a quiet life away from the cities. But I think it’s no bad thing – especially here in the sheltered Channel Islands – that our children have to travel to the UK for their tertiary education. They learn essential life skills that are not learnt here. I’m fortunate in that, if I do need to live cheaply in my old age, it won’t faze me to live in the city again.
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So interesting to read about the changing landscape of a town. “No dogs or Irish” – that makes me shudder.
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Hi Letizia. Yes but it was different times and attitudes. It’s difficult to criticise from our perspective.
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I love places that seem timeless–until I find out they have terrible Internet connections and cell phone reception! I’ll probably be in my little corner of Pennsylvania forever. I don’t know how I feel about that.
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True AMB, Welford had shocking mobile coverage! As for you, you’ve got many years ahead to make choices, maybe once the girls have flown the nest.
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This was a very interesting post, and you painted vivid pictures of England. I love England, it makes me want to go visit. My daughter Bea is studying at Oxford during spring quarter, and I might just have to drop her off and take another look round. My cousin Nancy just moved to England, and I promised I would visit, so I can fist two birds with one trip.
It has been a few years since I’ve traveled in England. When I go, I like to get out of London as soon as possible–I appreciate the museums and historical sites, but I prefer smaller villages when it comes to exploring. If I had to settle somewhere in England, I would like to live in the old town of a place big enough to have a decent grocery store, but it would be far enough away so that I wouldn’t have to look at until it was time to go shopping.
I hope you are well, Roy, and that 2015 is good to you!
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Thanks Naomi. Yes I find the British Isles in general quite fascinating. I think you sometimes have to look through and beyond some of the suburban dreariness. There are endless opportunities for discovery, exploration in the cities, towns, villages. The scenery is varied and ever changing and of course the history, both ancient and modern, is unsurpassed.
Bea will love Oxford. I don’t know that city very well but it’s always there waiting for me.
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