It’s the fashion to knock our Island. The Jerseyman is an inveterate grumbler anyway, but the rise of social media – blogs, forums etc. has seen the rise of a sizeable claque of malcontents who seem to take great pleasure in knocking and criticising everything to do with Jersey whilst rarely acknowledging that there may, just may, be points in favour.
Yesterday I had the good fortune to be able to spend the day with two first-time visitors to Jersey. They were sisters Naomi and Constance Baltuck, originally from Detroit but now residents of Seattle, Washington and Juneau, Alaska respectively. Naomi, an author/storyteller, I felt I knew already via her awesome blog, whilst Constance is a talented artist. They were perfect company.
So we set off in the car, a gorgeous sunny day. What would my visitors think of Jersey?
- First stop La Rocque Harbour. A stroll along the harbour wall, boats bobbing easily at anchor, views of the coast and Seymour Tower, a chat with a couple from Yorkshire, regular visitors. Back on the slipway we found the bullet marks which bear witness to the German bombing raid on the defenceless Island in June 1940 which killed three people right here before moving on to inflict further fatalities. I hope those guys were happy with their work.
- St Catherine’s Breakwater ,’The Harbour That Failed’, and a chat with Simon Smith the amazing sand sculpture man. Also nice to see the German bunker, formerly a popular viviers is now revived as a turbot farm, but it was shut today.
- Rozel Harbour. Park on the hill, stroll down the pier, still plenty busy with holidaymakers in late September. The little cottages and fishermen’s barraques are enduring curiosities. And the legend that is The Hungry Man where we grabbed a coffee. You wouldn’t want to be in a rush ordering here but it’s an institution that we need to support to keep it going.
- Devil’s Hole. Many years since I’ve been down here, an attraction since Victorian times.
- The War Tunnels. If your visitors have only one full day then this is the one must-do visitor attraction. Constant upgrading means that this remains a powerful and moving experience and my visitors were duly impressed. A pity the gift shop is so cheap and tatty with a woeful selection of Occupation books. It brings down an otherwise awesome visit.
- Grosnez Castle. An unplanned diversion which turned out well with plenty of photo ops.
- Corbiére. A drive-by turned into a stroll across the causeway, always an interesting experience. And well done to the ice-cream man who accepted euros.
- Noirmont & Portelet Commons. My favourite part of the Island and the background for my novels A Jersey Midsummer Tale and Tess of Portelet Manor. An idyllic hour as the sun set reluctantly leaving a gorgeous, soft light behind. Drinks at the Old Portelet Inn – good that it still serves a nice Real Ale as well as doing a good food trade.
- Roseville Bistro, another institution that has been serving good food since before I rocked up in Jersey in 1977. Seafood chowder and scallop salad for me – perfect.
- Funchal Paradiso Restaurant. Rewind 24 hours to the previous evening to Colomberie where we were pleased to discover a small, friendly establishment serving good Portuguese cuisine at very reasonable prices.
A near-perfect day for me in the company of two gorgeous, intelligent and appreciative companions. I hope our paths cross again someday. But I feel so sorry for those that live here and fail to appreciate the many attractive aspects of the Island – many of them free of charge.
I’ve gone light on the images on this one. I know Naomi will be following up with a much better effort than I could ever manage, in due course.
Aileen Rabbitt said:
Hi Roy, enjoyed rambling around the island with you. Haven’t been to some of these places since I was young, so it was nice to have my memory jogged. I think you’re right in what you said. So many people are busy wishing they were somewhere else, they fail to appreciate what’s in front of him. And Jersey is a beautiful island. I’ll have to revisit one of these days!
Aileen
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Roy McCarthy said:
Hey Aileen! Indeed I’ve got out of the habit of appreciating what’s on my doorstep so it was great to reaffirm what a nice place we have here. Yes, hope to see you here one day – we’re not so far away 🙂
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socialbridge said:
Magic!
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Roy McCarthy said:
I thought you’d like that Jean. Time to come back and see us.
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socialbridge said:
Definitely! It jogged so many memories.
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Laura Hogan said:
Can’t believe that people DO criticise Jersey. From your wonderful descriptions and photos, you’ve made me want to visit!
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Roy McCarthy said:
Hi Laura – don’t hesitate! I’m afraid some people have pulled up their personal drawbridges, wage their single agendas and refuse to open their eyes to anything else. We’re blessed.
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Jill Weatherholt said:
What a guy! Do you offer personalized tours to all of your fellow bloggers who visit Jersey, Roy? If so, sign me up! It sounds as though you were the perfect host. I’ll look forward to seeing Naomi’s photos.
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Roy McCarthy said:
Ah Jill *blush* the pleasure was totally mine, a great day. Naomi was snapping away all day and I’m certain she’ll produce another of her magical stories once she’s home.
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Britt Skrabanek said:
Everything sounds so serene and lovely. But, you know me…my happy ass would be exploring those war tunnels!
Glad you had such a swell time, Roy. It’s fun when people visit your home and you can explore familiar ground through fresh eyes.
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Roy McCarthy said:
I was thinking of you at the War Tunnels Britt – you’d love what they’ve done there. You are immersed in the Occupation years for a couple of hours and you cannot help but be affected. Yes it was a great day and it sure beat working!
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jennypellett said:
It’s always a wonderful opportunity to revisit familiar places when we have visitors in tow – and it makes us re-appreciate what’s sitting right under our noses! I so enjoyed your tour around Jersey, Roy – thanks!
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Roy McCarthy said:
Hello Jenny and thank you for joining us on our tour!
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A.M.B. said:
I think grumbling is just part of human nature. As for Jersey, you definitely make it look like a great tourist destination. Now all you need are “Tess” T-shirts to sell to the visitors! 🙂
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Roy McCarthy said:
It’s inbred into some of our folk AMB – maybe it makes them happy in some strange way. We even have a band called the ‘Grumpy Old Men’ who are, actually, pretty good 🙂 Yes, the tourism heyday has passed but it may return if we keep thinking positive.
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Main Street Musings Blog said:
Wow, that’s some castle! From, Jersey girl, Lisa. As in, Chatham, New Jersey. 🙂
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Roy McCarthy said:
Hello Lisa! Yes Simon’s one extraordinary craftsman. Nice to hear from young and bright New Jersey, and I wonder if Chatham is similarly derived from the historic Kent town?
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Main Street Musings Blog said:
I wonder too!
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The Silver Voice said:
Ah! A trip through time reminding me of the heady days of the early 1970s when every summer holiday was spent on either Guernsey or Jersey, reached by ferry from Weymouth, after a train journey from London. Portelet I loved ( was able for the steep climb down and back up) and those German underground caverns were astonishing; Victor Hugo’s footsteps, fabulous flower festivals, wasps, tomato and flower greenhouses, jewellery shopping in St Helier – all of the above sum up Jersey for me. How lucky were your two American visitors to have you as a guide in this splendid place! Thank you for the trip down memory lane !
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Roy McCarthy said:
Those were the halcyon days indeed SV. Much has changed (no longer a cheap destination) but much remains timeless and without cost for those that take the time to stop and appreciate.
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Red Hen said:
Catching up here with you, Roy. It`s wonderful to see our home turf through visitors`eyes and it sounds as though you had perfect companions there. I`ve never been to Jersey, though I smiled at the familiarity of some of those placenames from your wonderful book “Tess of Portelet Manor”. The placenames themselves, of course, reveal a little of the tug of war which must have been Jersey`s fate in history, as it lies so close to the French coast. Looking forward to reading your companions`perspectives on their trip.
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Roy McCarthy said:
Thank you RH, you’re very kind. Yes I was very proud showing off Jersey to appreciative visitors especially, as the sun started to set, Tess’s home parish which I tried to portray accurately.
Strangely enough Jersey has had a generally peaceful history, certainly compared to Ireland. The French were a bit pesky during Napoleonic times and the Germans were certainly unwelcome invaders. But otherwise the Island has been left to its own devices.
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oawritingspoemspaintings said:
The way you describe the place seems like a dream place, far from the noise of big cities…
Sometime one needs to go in order to come back better 🙂
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Roy McCarthy said:
Well it was one of those days where everything indeed seemed perfect. I can’t lie and say that it seems that way all the time 🙂 But thank you for your visit and your kind comments. I’ll be taking a closer look at your very interesting site shortly.
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roughwighting said:
As I read your post, I felt like I was reading about ‘home,’ even though I’ve never been to your part of the world. Maybe because I grew up in NEW Jersey, USA. Back there, the same thing – those who live there tend to put it down (as I did, as a teenager). But now we high school friends (who live far far away from our home state) reminisce about all we loved while living in ‘Jersey,’ I enjoyed visiting YOUR home in this post, and would love to see it real time, sometime.
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Roy McCarthy said:
Ah thank you for those lovely comments Pam. I have to say I was so proud of the Island that day. But actually, on a wild winter’s day, the place shows another rugged, wild and almost timeless aspect. Would love to meet you one day Pam!
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Billie said:
Sounds like Ireland; people want to knock it and for the most stupid reasons first. It does sound very quiet and lovely, will have to fly by there one day also.
Guilty pleasure: watching old Bergerac episodes. Mad or what? :D)
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Roy McCarthy said:
Ah Bergerac! Still doing wonders for tourism 20+ years later My ex was an extra for a day – got paid a small fortune and just had to be part of a crowd for a few seconds on screen.:-) Hey, drop by if you can Billie!
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Billie said:
I intend to! A brother of one of my Irish ex-boyfriends lives there also, and was to visit then until well, I said “we’re over” and Jersey was no more 😀
Do you speak French Roy? I do, but boy oh boy it’s been so long since speaking it!
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Roy McCarthy said:
Shamefully only schoolboy French even though I can see France from my window most days. However I find that shouting and waving one’s arms about usually impresses waiters, shop assistants etc 🙂
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