Crisp and clear. Parking at Noirmont it was a three-top and gloves day for sure. Every time I venture this way the boys of the Channel Islands Occupation Society seem to have done more work in reinstating Batterie Lothringen. The Germans’ alpha defensive position during the Occupation, the bunkers were back-filled in the late 1940s and the armaments slung over the cliffs. Now much has been recovered and is there for all to see.
First a warm-up trot across Noirmont Common, through the woods and over to Portelet. The sign for the Old Portelet Inn says est.1606. Hogwash. The building may (or may not) date from then but the pub is firmly mid 1900s. It’s a fine establishment though and one puts up with the restaurant feel as it keeps one of our few remaining decent country pubs going. EDIT Sept 2013 – thanks to the wonderful folk at the Jersey Archive I learn that the original building indeed dates back to 1606 but the first mention of an inn or hostelry is 1950.
Around past the unloved Portelet apartments and past the site of the former Hotel Bergerac and the last hotel that remained out this way, the now-closed Portelet Hotel. In Jersey’s heyday Portelet swarmed with holidaymakers, now there’s nary a one left, even in the summer.
Onto Portelet Common and a bit of a scramble down the stepped track to Ouaisne. The rivulets on the beach are frozen today – the sun doesn’t get around here until later. I want to follow the path up through Ouaisne Common, today a fragile eco system supporting the rare agile frog. The path turns into a track which ends abruptly at a spooky cottage and I turn back.
Finding the drive at the bottom of Les Ruisseaux Estate I trot up towards the main road, gawking at the properties. This, with Park Estate, was one of Jersey’s first exclusive out-of-town residential estates. Each property is self-contained and designed to the original owner’s specification. Posh, but not offensively so. I guess most of the dwellings were built in the 1920 – 1940 period, but Les Ruisseaux Lodge, at the top of the drive, is by far the oldest – again a guess at 1860.
Onto the main road and back into Route de Noirmont. A little way along, on the right, a footpath has been established over an ancient watercourse. Puffing along it I read that here is another enclave of the aforementioned amphibians.
Approaching Noirmont again one passes through Warren Farm, an old Jersey farm purchased by the States of Jersey to save it from dereliction. It is now tenanted and working and further into the common you can see their amazingly big and fat pigs, pretty unique to Jersey. Also it’s nice to see a newly-established coffee kiosk at the farm, open even in the winter when most concessions are locked and barred.
This is one of my favourite parts of the Island and it features widely in my second novel A Jersey Midsummer Tale due to be published in a few months time. What? My first novel? Click on the middle tab at the top of the page.
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Reblogged this on Back On The Rock and commented:
One of my most-viewed posts is from February 2012, though it has yet to attract a ‘like’ or ‘comment’ π Maybe that’s because it’s crap but anyway here it is again.
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The reason is not because its crap but because your views are most likely coming from facebook or search engines, and therefore not from other bloggers. Unless people sign up for a wordpress acct, I dont think they can click like or leave a comment, but I could be wrong about that. Anyway, I enjoyed it, and the sea looks amazing! What a beautiful place you live. Pity you couldnt get a picture of one of those rare little amphibians! π
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Thanks Ali, you might be right. Not that I’m bothered but just mildly surprised with how popular this post is. Indeed for a small island Jersey is packed with interest and beauty.
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Thats why its always been a popular holiday destination. π personally I dont know very much about it so I enjoy being enlightened by your posts.
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Well the demography of our visitors has changed radically Ali. Very few come for a cheap beach holiday these days. There’s a more discerning trend, plus we are holding more big sporting and cultural events. The Island has changed radically in that respect since I arrived in 1977.
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Well that sounds like a good thing. People who are coming want to be there and appreciate all it has to offer, rather than people simply wanting a bargain beach holiday… they will get that anywhere that has sand and sea. Clearly the island is marketing itself differently these days… would you say its paying off?
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Well Ali, too much resource has been put into the financial sector in recent years so that tourism, agriculture and indigenous industry have declined badly. The stock of hotel beds has slumped to a dangerous level and, at last, there are renewed efforts to get tourism moving again. And yes, the signs are brighter than for some time.
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I always enjoy learning about your Jersey. I knew nothing about it before I started following your blog. To me, Jersey was always New Jersey. π
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Yes Carrie, lengthy explanations usually required when meeting Americans. There is of course a historical connection.
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Roy, I love it, not just like it.
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Thank you Jean. I love my home island.
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Roy, I wondered if I would ever see you write this so explicitly. It would be hard not to love Jersey, I suspect?
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Indeed. Though, like Ireland, it’s too easy to get consumed by the frustration of politics, issues, imperfections. Once you put those to one side what’s not to love?
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‘Consumed’ is a very strong word. I think it’s important not to ignore them but if one gets consumed by them, there’s even less hope of being able to make even a weeny difference.
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Yes indeed Jean, consumed = unable to see beyond one’s own tiny world.
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Well, I enjoyed the ramble with you Roy. I can’t believe that the place is devoid of holidaymakers – it’s absolutely beautiful. Where do they all go? Maybe the place is all the better for them being elsewhere! I’ve never heard of an agile frog…
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Hey Jenny, love the new photo. Yes, back in the day this area teemed with holidaymakers. We miss the economic activity but it’s left our beautiful countryside the better to enjoy.
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Aw, thanks Roy. Lucky you to have such lovely scenery on your doorstep.
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Indeed, and not a day goes by without me appreciating it Jenny. Even yesterday as I suffered badly in a road race I was awed by the beauty and grandeur of our west coast and how lucky I was to be out there enjoying it (sort of).
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It’s not a crap post, Roy, and how lovely for you to go visiting such scenic places while the weather is brisk. It’s nice to do that sometimes – to see them in (literally) a different light and perhaps to have them all to yourself away from the summer holiday throngs.
I’m curious as to whether Noirmont, Portelet, and Ouaisne are pronounced in the French way. (Being a next-door neighbour to the US, I’m used to their penchant for anglicising names.)
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Hi Janna and thank you. To be honest you can find peace and quiet out of town all year round, but the elements lend a little extra interest π
As to the place names Noirmont and Ouaisne pronounced exactly in the French way with an e-acute on the latter, so ‘way-nay’. Portelet by contrast is spoken as written with a hard ‘t’ at the end.
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HI Roy,
This feels like a flashback to the walks you took with my sister Constance and me when we visited Jersey. Beautiful photos, especially the path to Portelet Common.
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That was a great day Naomi. Maybe you’ll find your way back some day.
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I would love to, Roy! Not only do you have some of the richest history and most beautiful landscapes, but you also have some of the best op shops I’ve ever visited!
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Awesome post, Roy! Believe this was before my blogging time, which is how I missed it.
You must never tire of the scenery out there when you’re running. I feel the same way here, but it’s all nature without the interesting history. Except for the Pittock Mansion that I blogged about before. The mansion found its way into my WIP, of course.
By the way, I call you “Jersey Roy” when I mention you to Mr. H. Don’t think I’ve told you that before. π
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Thanks Britt. True, the combination of varied surroundings and deep history is awesome. However it’s only in recent years I’ve been so enthused by these things which are free for everyone. I guess it comes along with age π
‘Jersey Roy’ has a certain ring to it, and I’ve been called worse.
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As Carrie said, I love learning about your part of the world (which, by the way is much prettier than NEW Jersey). :-0
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Ah thanks Pam. I’m sure New Jersey is cool but we’re the original.
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